alcatraz- i woulldnt use silicone for this. try using a mold making putty. i lay a sword (for example) on its side and press it into the putty where there is a large indent. when that hardens i press some more putty over the top. this allows all of the resin to get through the mold without getting stuck at the entry. for the type of weapon your molding, pharazons idea might work better. just tell me if you need pics.
Alcatraz~ That's where you would need clay. Press the piece in the clay and make a Top half of the mold. When cured remove and coat with silicone release. Insert the piece in to the coated silicone and pour more silicone to make the bottom half. I'll see if I can find that article for a better explanation.
im looking to make custom casted headgear + weapons(guns) and was wondering what to buy cos i live in australia and i dont know were to get plastic resin and a silicone molding kit^_^
Hedrought, this topic is 4 months old. You can't dig it up just to say your sad because you think Redbean left (which he didn't).
If your intent on digging up an old topic make sure you have something important and legitimate to add to the conversation. But for the most part do your best to refrain from such activities.
If you have any sort of HobbyTown type store in your area, you can sometimes find it there. Generaly an entire setup like I bought this last summer costs somewhere from $40-$60. Another place to find Resin Casting supplies is a plastic store. A plastic store chain on the west coast of the USA is called Tap Plastics.
Ah, I see what you mean now, sorry. Not with this method, you have to physically construct a master before pouring the silicone. I doubt very much that silicone is a good medium for sculpting. You would probably need some kind of clay for that and make two bricks each and sculpt either with one half of the accessory. Carve a small channel where you can pour resin in while the two bricks are clamped together.
I think that's the best way for that, but what kind of clay to use for this is a very good question indeed. Anyone know?
It tells you how to make a mold by pouring liquid silicone over an existing piece, making it a mold for that piece. Unless it's possible to make the mold into the desired shape once it's set, I don't see how someone could make completely original pieces using that process. I need to know how to make original pieces, whether it'll only be used as a master piece to shape the mold for replicas or not. What I was asking is: Is it possible to shape a mold of silicone to cast an original idea of your own without first making a master using some other method?
I read it, but is it a way of making replicas of existing pieces or completely new pieces. If it's the former, then I don't really need it because I was looking for a way to make new pieces, not replicas of existing ones. Of course, if it's the latter then now all I need to know is how to get the mold into the desired shape :D.
I'll admit that all I learned from the tutorial is how to make copies of existing pieces. Did I miss anything? Or is that all it tells you to do anyway?
Brickforge, BrickArms and the like use ABS plastic molding. Requiring expensive metal machined molds and many man hours. The best way to make durable replicas of your creations is with resin. Then it doesn't matter what the original master is made of as long as it can withstand the molding process. Check this tutorial.
What is used to make the items you can buy on Brickforge (molds, material for the item, etc)? I'd like to make my own accessories for minifigs, but after buying some items (which I must say I really like) from Brickforge, I've decided that I'd like to know what the accessories are actually made of and use that (unless there's something stronger, that can take more wear and tear) to make my accessories. I want them to be sturdy, not like what'd happen if I made the accessories from clay (they'd fall apart).
ps: My first impression of sculpey and epoxy and all that stuff was that the creation would become brittle like one made of clay. So I understand I may be making a fuss over something unimportant (but that doesn't mean I wouldn't like an answer to my question). : )
And I meant using the foil for accessories. If you use a hair dryer or better an embossing tool, and head gear should come of the fig if you pull carefully enough.
Create your Sculpey piece on a sheet of aluminum foil and just pop the sheet in the oven or use a hair dryer to solidify it. The hair dryer might also solve your sticky problem.
As for the decals, it is possible that Kaminoan just might have the files and permission necessary to print out that design. If you ask him in a pithy and polite email, you'll get your answer.
As for Little Armory, if the owner says coming soon he means it. No word on exactly when but I already have some funds saved up for it too. Hope this helps.
I'm new here...well actually I've technically been a member for a year or so but I haven't been around here in over a year...i'm a big fan of minifig customization...I'm still new at it though, and I mostly see what other people are doing-i haven't really attempted anything myself although I've drawn up tons of designs. I have a few questions...
How can I make weapons out of sculpey without a frame as Redbean suggests? Can it be done that way so I can just sculpt it and bake it?
I tried using a kit kat foil wrapper to sculpt a hat for Link from Legend of Zelda but the clay still stuck to the head..I live in a really humid area..any tips? The clay sticks to my fingers too...
I have a water slide decal kit meant for model cars...can i use it for decals on torsos, heads, etc?
Last, and slightly off-topic, is there a link to redbeans Link (from Zelda) decals? They were on the original Redbean Studios site, but I don't see them here...the link face had like blue eyes and there was the best torso decal I've seen out of the many on brickshelf, etc...
Sorry to be a spaz, but I'd like to put my designs into action and start a brickshelf account..by the way, anyone know when little armory is coming back...it says coming soon...
I made one once but it was to thick, and I don't like the minifig to be so tall. Do you have any tips on how to do this?
Try making one that fits the circumference of the lower portion of the minifig HEAD instead of neck-peg. Sort of like how the official LEGO beard piece works. The head will slide down into it, instead of resting on top of it. Thus, you won't get any extra height.
I've been trying to make a quiver for my lego archer, and I've got every thing but the neck peice just right. I made one once but it was to thick, and I don't like the minifig to be so tall. Do you have any tips on how to do this?
gray-black mix is supposedly less sticky, and is meant for the "marionette" minatures supplied by reaper. more for sculpting, less for sticky gap-filling. its great stuff. i think Deathstickman also had a topic on it as well...
Epoxy, although self-hardening, isn't good for beginners for sculpting. easily stretched, and reeeeaaallllyyyy sticky unless dunked in water, this material was originally intended to fill gaps in metal warhammer models whilst still being aethstetically pleasing. many still master the secrets locked away within the gooey mess however, so it wouldn't hurt to give it a try.
I exclusively use self-hardening two-part sculpting material -- Apoxie Sculpt and Fixit Sculpt. 'Mastering' it isn't really difficult. Most action figure customizers that I know also use it, as to almost all modellers (although greenstuff is popular with modellers as well).
I think hes talking about the old red bean studios web site. If so than I don't think that website is up anymore and has transformed into brickforge.
Also, I think green stuff (two part epoxy putty, blue/yellow) works well for sculpting.
-RIPPAMAN[/quote]
Epoxy, although self-hardening, isn't good for beginners for sculpting. easily stretched, and reeeeaaallllyyyy sticky unless dunked in water, this material was originally intended to fill gaps in metal warhammer models whilst still being aethstetically pleasing. many still master the secrets locked away within the gooey mess however, so it wouldn't hurt to give it a try.
[quote=Shurtugal]try FIMO. it is softer, I find, or you can buy a harder version. you usually don't need to blowdry it soft if you store it right. it works the exact same as sculpey, and you can buy it at tge same places. it cooks at a different temperature though, remember that.[/quote]
Fimo Is very good for people who don't want their models to harden when they aren't home. it's a lot harder to blowdry-harden, however, due to its high heat tolerance (like pork demon said, 130 C, and 265 F)
Resin is usually a 2 part mixture (1 part is the resin itself, the other part is the actual hardner). Whilst they remain seperated they WONT harden. It's only when they mix together the chemical reaction between the 2 will make them set (harden) over a given amount of time.
Sculpey needs temperature to harden (oven or blowdry). If you blowdry it though, it may not FULLY harden all the way through. Also, don't hold the sculpey in your hands whilst blowdrying. Not only will your fingers get hot, but the pressure of your fingers will also distort the shape of the sculpy.
so the plastic just gets hard like a lego but how does it stay soft and the stuff u use to make a mold... does it come with the resin or resin kit???!?
sorry i didnt reply earlier,
Thanks I will try. Do you
Thanks I will try.
Do you guys think Wallmart sells resin? ( I live in hawaii and there is no Hobbylobbys)
Thanks Alcatraz
alcatraz- i woulldnt use
Alcatraz~ That's where you
im looking to make custom
I read Redbeans molding
I read Redbeans molding page but I was wondering how to make molds of non head gear pieces (axes weapons ect)
Thanks. alcatraz
Hedrought, this topic is 4
Hedrought, this topic is 4 months old. You can't dig it up just to say your sad because you think Redbean left (which he didn't).
If your intent on digging up an old topic make sure you have something important and legitimate to add to the conversation. But for the most part do your best to refrain from such activities.
Its a shame that Redbean
If you have any sort of
were can you get resin in
Were can i get some resin
You can find it at both. It
I was just wondering, were
Ah, I see what you mean now,
I think that's the best way for that, but what kind of clay to use for this is a very good question indeed. Anyone know?
It tells you how to make a
Pre-existing or not, the
I read it, but is it a way
I read it, but is it a way of making replicas of existing pieces or completely new pieces. If it's the former, then I don't really need it because I was looking for a way to make new pieces, not replicas of existing ones. Of course, if it's the latter then now all I need to know is how to get the mold into the desired shape :D.
I'll admit that all I learned from the tutorial is how to make copies of existing pieces. Did I miss anything? Or is that all it tells you to do anyway?
Brickforge, BrickArms and
What is used to make the
What is used to make the items you can buy on Brickforge (molds, material for the item, etc)? I'd like to make my own accessories for minifigs, but after buying some items (which I must say I really like) from Brickforge, I've decided that I'd like to know what the accessories are actually made of and use that (unless there's something stronger, that can take more wear and tear) to make my accessories. I want them to be sturdy, not like what'd happen if I made the accessories from clay (they'd fall apart).
ps: My first impression of sculpey and epoxy and all that stuff was that the creation would become brittle like one made of clay. So I understand I may be making a fuss over something unimportant (but that doesn't mean I wouldn't like an answer to my question). : )
 I've seen black-gray
And I meant using the foil
thank you. but i meant
Create your Sculpey piece on
As for the decals, it is possible that Kaminoan just might have the files and permission necessary to print out that design. If you ask him in a pithy and polite email, you'll get your answer.
As for Little Armory, if the owner says coming soon he means it. No word on exactly when but I already have some funds saved up for it too. Hope this helps.
Hi, I'm new here...well
Hi,
I'm new here...well actually I've technically been a member for a year or so but I haven't been around here in over a year...i'm a big fan of minifig customization...I'm still new at it though, and I mostly see what other people are doing-i haven't really attempted anything myself although I've drawn up tons of designs. I have a few questions...
How can I make weapons out of sculpey without a frame as Redbean suggests? Can it be done that way so I can just sculpt it and bake it?
I tried using a kit kat foil wrapper to sculpt a hat for Link from Legend of Zelda but the clay still stuck to the head..I live in a really humid area..any tips? The clay sticks to my fingers too...
I have a water slide decal kit meant for model cars...can i use it for decals on torsos, heads, etc?
Last, and slightly off-topic, is there a link to redbeans Link (from Zelda) decals? They were on the original Redbean Studios site, but I don't see them here...the link face had like blue eyes and there was the best torso decal I've seen out of the many on brickshelf, etc...
Sorry to be a spaz, but I'd like to put my designs into action and start a brickshelf account..by the way, anyone know when little armory is coming back...it says coming soon...
Thx, Minifigman
Thanks Damien thats a good
Posts Merged:
I would like to know if any of yall bake it all at once or at different times?
I made one once but it was
I made one once but it was to thick, and I don't like the minifig to be so tall. Do you have any tips on how to do this?
Try making one that fits the circumference of the lower portion of the minifig HEAD instead of neck-peg. Sort of like how the official LEGO beard piece works. The head will slide down into it, instead of resting on top of it. Thus, you won't get any extra height.
I've been trying to make a
gray-black mix is supposedly
Blue-yellow, for me. I don't
Blue-yellow, for me. I don't think I've ever seen a gray-black mix.
ah, thats right. damien, do
Epoxy, although
Epoxy, although self-hardening, isn't good for beginners for sculpting. easily stretched, and reeeeaaallllyyyy sticky unless dunked in water, this material was originally intended to fill gaps in metal warhammer models whilst still being aethstetically pleasing. many still master the secrets locked away within the gooey mess however, so it wouldn't hurt to give it a try.
I exclusively use self-hardening two-part sculpting material -- Apoxie Sculpt and Fixit Sculpt. 'Mastering' it isn't really difficult. Most action figure customizers that I know also use it, as to almost all modellers (although greenstuff is popular with modellers as well).
I think hes talking about the old red bean studios web site. If so than I don't think that website is up anymore and has transformed into brickforge.
Ah, yes. Redbean's store is now located here.
I think hes talking about
Don't know what website
Don't know what website you're talking about, or what that has to do with this article. Can you elaborate - give a link, something?
am i the only person who
whenever i click the link it takes me to a different website that gives me pop-ups
...sorry that posted twice for some reason....
I recently bought some
Probably just the
Also, I think green stuff (two part epoxy putty, blue/yellow) works well for sculpting.
-RIPPAMAN
RIPPAMAN wrote:Probably just
[quote=RIPPAMAN]Probably just the latter.
Also, I think green stuff (two part epoxy putty, blue/yellow) works well for sculpting.
-RIPPAMAN[/quote]
Epoxy, although self-hardening, isn't good for beginners for sculpting. easily stretched, and reeeeaaallllyyyy sticky unless dunked in water, this material was originally intended to fill gaps in metal warhammer models whilst still being aethstetically pleasing. many still master the secrets locked away within the gooey mess however, so it wouldn't hurt to give it a try.
[quote=Shurtugal]try FIMO. it is softer, I find, or you can buy a harder version. you usually don't need to blowdry it soft if you store it right. it works the exact same as sculpey, and you can buy it at tge same places. it cooks at a different temperature though, remember that.[/quote]
Fimo Is very good for people who don't want their models to harden when they aren't home. it's a lot harder to blowdry-harden, however, due to its high heat tolerance (like pork demon said, 130 C, and 265 F)
my two cents.
-yeroc
Can you but sheet styrene at
Can you but sheet styrene at a Wal-Mart or a Hobby Lobby?
Look Here
Then where should I ask it?
Wrong place to ask that.
How do you make a mold?
How do you make a mold?
Sculpey should work
Sculpey should work fine,Makar,
Welcome to MCN BTW ;-)
if i wanted to make a rather
what part of the resin do
To make the mold you use
It is always a good idea to
Resin is usually a 2 part
Resin is usually a 2 part mixture (1 part is the resin itself, the other part is the actual hardner). Whilst they remain seperated they WONT harden. It's only when they mix together the chemical reaction between the 2 will make them set (harden) over a given amount of time.
Sculpey needs temperature to harden (oven or blowdry). If you blowdry it though, it may not FULLY harden all the way through. Also, don't hold the sculpey in your hands whilst blowdrying. Not only will your fingers get hot, but the pressure of your fingers will also distort the shape of the sculpy.
Cheers, MMCB
so the plastic just gets
resin hardens by itself
resin hardens by itself dosnt it?