Printing Service

Because several of you have asked if I could print your designs, here is an instructional guide to printing.

Preparing art for Fine Clonier Printing Service (and Red Bean Studio if RB is willing)

1. Art must be either prepared in or compatible with Adobe Illustrator or Corel Draw.
2. The following CMYK values denote special colors (See Below):

White: C: 2 M: 2 Y: 2 K: 0
Silver (Metallic or Foil): C: 26 M: 24 Y: 23 K: 0
Gold (Metallic or Foil): C: 12 M: 37 Y: 100 K: 0
Metallic Cyan: C: 100 M: 31 Y: 21 K: 0
Metallic Magenta: C: 36 M: 86 Y: 55 K: 0

If you want to use these colors, these exact CMYK values must be used.

For Lego Color values please see the color chart at Peeron: Offical Lego Color Palette

3. Art must be color separated into 3 layer/files for best printing (See Examples, Thanks RB for the Art).


White Layer



Metal Layer



CMYK Layer


The three layers are White (Printed First), Metal Inks (Printed Second), CMYK (Printed Third).

The art is printed in layers, anything that is to be transparent or printed with a metal ink should not be under printed in white (Make sure that it does not appear on the white layer/file). Any color can appear on the white layer/section and the printer will print it in white. Only use the special CMYK color value for white in special situation when printing white over the top of another color.

Metal inks come in two types, Foil and Metallic, please note which you prefer. Foil is more shinny like a mirror and metallic is more dull.

If you want both metallic and foil art must be color separated into 4 layers/files. For an example of this affect please see this design: Boromir

Questions??
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I don't currently have the option of selling pre-decaled torsos/figs. I am a graduate student working on my Ph.D. so time is a bit scarce, which is why I have been lurking more than anything lately.

I can clarify the instructions a bit for you, decal application is possible with water only. However if you were to "play" with these figs you risk damaging the decal. If however, your custom figs were for mere display, then they would be perfectly fine at this point. There is an alternative that I haven't seen mentioned here, the finished fig could be protected with many products, including floor wax. See this site: Future's Floor Wax

Through the use of setting solution the decal adheres more tightly to a fig, but this solution is not required and I don't always use it. The second solution is decal softening solution. This is only required when fitting a decal to a complex curve, like the minifig arm (and only when applying to the whole arm). If I am applying a decal to a flat surface, the torso for example, I do not commonly use the decal softening solution. Lastly, I use gloss or semi-gloss overcoat which is just a clear enamel to cover and protect the fig, however, as I have previously stated you can even use floor wax as many modelers do.

Don't be restricted to just what the FAQs state, there are many ways to apply a water slide decal, if you really want to experiment, pick up a cheap model, at Walmart type store, off the clearance rack for a $1. Take the water slide decals out and play with them. See what you can do and if you are happy with the finished product. If you can't find a model with water-slide decals, I have some misprinted decals I could send you to try. If this doesn't work out for you, then maybe we could work something out, where I apply a decal for you, but I would rather you have the experience/pride in your accomplishment, than let someone else finish the fig you have worked so hard to make. Hope this helps and if you want to discuss it further please feel free to email me at Fineclonier@gmail.com

As far as a fee for the printing service, it would be just like my current pricing (for reference it is similar to RB's decal pricing), which depends a bit on the design and the number of decals you are interested in getting. I try to cover my costs yet keep this economical for you guys.
Jared "Kaminoan" Burks